The Goulburn Cookery Book

The Goulburn cookbook is a much beloved aspect of Goulburn’s local history. Reprinted every year for over 30 years, the book has left a lasting impression on the appetites and in the memories of the people of Goulburn.

Goulburn Mulwaree Library digitised an original edition of this cookbook in 2023, making this rare edition digitally available to every kitchen and table for the first time!

Setting the scene...

Life was very different at the turn of the century in Australia, especially in regional areas.

Outside view of the kitchen at St Clair on Sloane Street in Goulburn.

Unlike today, or even life in the city at that time, rural families did not have the same comforts of shopping and convenience that we have grown accustomed too. While many companies and industries we recognise today started to pop up from the 1870s – Arnott's Biscuits for instance, factories producing tomato sauce, and mills producing flour – many ingredients were still produced and sourced locally, such as meat and dairy products.

Out of this evolving food culture comes the cookbooks used not by bustling kitchen staff but by the housewives and daughters of the day.

Everybody wants a bite!

Jean Rutledge was born in Braidwood to Irish settler parents Major Richard Morphy and Miss Jane Styles. Major Morphy had served in the 23rd Madras Regiment in India and Miss Styles came from Bungonia.

Jean Rutledge compiled The Goulburn Cookery Book in 1899 and gifted the copyright to the Church Society of the [Anglican] Diocese to assist in fundraising. From the beginning it was a community affair, with several recipes being contributed by the pupils of Goulburn Public School.

Jean Rutledge with sons Tom and Pat.

The book proved to be extremely popular, being reprinted each year and selling between 5000 to 10,000 copies each run. To put that into perspective, the population of Goulburn in 1911 was only 10,000 and it only grew to 15,000 by 1933! That is practically half the town purchasing one or more copies of the book for themselves and loved ones.

And it wasn’t just local interest either; in this newspaper article from 1916, it is reported a woman in Egypt requests a copy of the book!

1916 'IT IS SAID.', Goulburn Evening Penny Post (NSW : 1881 - 1940), 25 March, p. 2. (EVENING), http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article98896478

The outbreak of World War 1 didn’t stop people's appetite for the cuisine pressed within the pages of this reliable and local book.

1916 'DIOCESE OF GOULBURN.', Goulburn Evening Penny Post (NSW : 1881 - 1940), 4 January, p. 1. (EVENING), http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article98890159

Even 32 years after its initial publication, there was still much love and excitement for a new reprint.

1931 'GOULBURN COOKERY BOOK', Goulburn Evening Penny Post (NSW : 1881 - 1940), 16 March, p. 3. (DAILY and EVENING), http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article99774640

Jean Rutledge passed away at the age of 77 in 1932. Her legacy left a lasting impact on the local community and Anglican Diocese which is still remembered fondly today in the memories of those who had home cooked meals from the pages of the book and every copy stained with flour and jam.

1932 'OBITUARY', Goulburn Evening Penny Post (NSW : 1881 - 1940), 15 August, p. 2. (DAILY and EVENING), http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article99555113

Recipes to challenge your skills and taste buds

Have a go at tasting history by trying one of these classic recipes below:

And if you really want a challenge, how about some of these more…interesting dishes?